TABLE OF CONTENTS: PART I
TABLE OF CONTENTS, PARTS II, III & IV CONTINUE ON THE NEXT PAGES.
Britain: Britain's fashion showcase has been more successful than
ever, says Hillary Alexinders, with a mix of new stars and old favourites. High drama and hot design went hand in hand
at London Fashion Week. On the catwalk, the Great British Eccentric enjoyed a
comeback, wrapped in a stylish, boho mix of belted tweed, patchwork and silk;
jewelled and gloved - and never without a little fur shrug or stole adorning
her shoulders. Boudicca and Sophia Kokosalaki staged
two of the strongest shows. Betty Jackson, John Rocha and Jean Muir added wit
and eclecticism to the tailoring tradition. Clements Ribeiro, Eley Kishimoto
and Jonathan Saunders all demonstrated London's innovative strength with
print. Newer names – Bora Aksu, Rafael Lopez, Miki Fukai – made a strong
bid for the limelight, and older names, such as Pringle and Jasper Conran,
delighted with fresh
looks.........................................................................................................................................6
Parade: United Kingdom fashion parade. Fashion of Jasper Conran..................................8
Parade 1: Fashion of Antoni and Wilson....................................................................................................................................10
Parade2: Fashion of Antoni and Wilson, Preen........................................................................................................................12
Parade3: Fashion of Boudicca, Betty Jackson..........................................................................................................................14
Parade4: Fashion of Bora Aksu, Ronit Zilka..............................................................................................................................15
Parade4: Fashion of Ronit Zilkha, John Rochas.......................................................................................................................17
World:
2004 World haute couture and fashion .
Galliano Captivates Paris.
Common
sense dictates that in order to make money, a fashion house should make
clothes that will be bought and worn by many. But at the court of John
Galliano, the fashion wonderland that is Christian Dior, common sense is as
foreign a concept as sensible shoes.
Other
luxury houses have hit lean times, but at Christian Dior sales and profits
have climbed steadily this decade, without a single wearable dress appearing
on a catwalk. There has always been an air of fairytale to the John Galliano
story. However, even by the standards of fashion's finest showman, Monday's
haute couture spring/summer 2004 show in Paris was jaw-dropping. The show was
conservatively valued at more than £1 million ($2.4 million). Each season,
Galliano travels abroad in search of inspiration. Two months ago he visited
Egypt, where he was struck by how the elongated shapes and exaggerated poses
of the figures in ancient Egyptian art
echoed...............................19-21
Versace: Donatella
Versace turned up the heat at Paris couture week today with a smoldering
spring-summer 2004 collection of slinky siren gowns, micro-minis and sleek
pant suits sparkling with crystals and beads.
Pop diva
Christina Aguilera, who appeared in Versace's latest print ad campaign, set
flashguns popping at the evening show in an ornate room at the swank Ritz
hotel owned by Mohamed Al Fayed, who also was in attendance. The Italian
designer, back on the Paris catwalk for the first time in 18 months, sent out
a bevy of beauties in her own image: long locks - most of them blond like hers
- combed pin straight, bodies tanned and stomachs toned. Her mini-dresses
showed why Versace is synonymous with glamour...........22-28
Brazil:
Sao Paulo Show. Despite
the doe-eyed models, miles of muslin and yards of silk, the common man managed
to catch and keep the spotlight at Brazil's biggest designer event, Sao Paulo
Fashion Week. The watchwords at this year's event, were sales and jobs. An
entire floor of the Sao Paulo Biennal Pavilion was transformed into a fashion
salon, a polite word for a beehive of functional conference rooms where sales
personnel for three dozen designers pushed this year's autumn and winter lines
on big-buck buyers. "This is fashion real people can wear," said Fause Haten
of his masculine line, a juxtaposition of cowboy boots, blue blazers and torn
jeans. To underline this year's minimalism, Haten had his 28 male models
parade a new line of boxer shorts as his show's grand finale.
...........................................29-32
Couture/Art: Couture High Art
Stalks the Catwalk.
Gaultier: Gaultier's
jaw-dropping outfits, for example, transcend culture and time. He treats his
models the way an artist uses a canvas - as blank surfaces on which to
embroider his wildest, most outrageous fantasies and as vehicles for his
surrealistic imaginings. And I have to say that one of the most interesting
aspects of the Gaultier show for me was that the painted and scarified
giants who modeled the clothes were slightly frightening. For the finale,
they all returned wearing only the bare bones of the clothes: the corsets,
bras, high heels, fantastic jewels and headdresses. For a brief moment, I
thought of the monstrous brigade of women who confront us in Picasso's first
cubist masterpiece, the Demoiselles d'Avignon. Here was the same
vision of European women seen through the prism of African tribal art, the
same confrontational aesthetic, the same fascination
mixed.......................35 -40
Stars:
Stars, style and fashion. Today we know the price of everything and the value of nothing."
Oscar Wilde said that and he hadn't even seen In Style magazine.
run
up a credit-card debt in my life. How many women go bankrupt after reading In
Style.....41-45
Hayek:
Salma
Hayek was on the cover last month wearing a dress by Versace, a fashion house so
much better run by Donatella than the late Gianni. The dress is a pinkish beige
satin, the color of a pearl whose oyster was tickled full-time in its own
private ocean. Its ribbons swing outwards, then inwards, then outwards again,
giving the superstructure a lot of support. I can't tell whether it's
comfortable, but the knockoff (with miniskirt rather than Versace's strategic
silk georgette rag skirt) I bought at Galeries Lafayette in Paris on Sept. 10 is
loaded with Lycra and I could exercise in it with comfort..
TABLE OF CONTENTS, PARTS II, III & IV CONTINUE ON THE NEXT PAGES.